Official Luthiers Forum!

I remember a discussion a few weeks ago about end blocks, so I thought I would throw my (late!) 2 cents in.

There was some discussion over whether the blocks should attach to the top and back, if this would dampen movement of the top/back, etc.

I have been using an end block that I think is a fair compromise (minimal attachment to the top and back, and still thick enough to take an end pin or jack).

Like some of you, I have been using baltic birch ply for the endblock, so what I am doing is to coutour one side to fit the bottom curvature of the sides, and then marking off an area that is the same width as the kerfing you are using. After doing this, i chamfer the rest of the ply block with a 25 degree chamfer bit, so it will not contact the back and sides.

This is easier to show in pictures than in words, so here are a couple of pics:


Curvature of guitar bottom sanded into end block


Chamfering of the rest of the block, leaving a ledge for top/back/kerfing to glue to.

Just another take on it...there are as many wasy to do things are there are guitar builders, I think! :)

Hi Russ:
I make my own laminated tail blocks of Spruce and Mahogany. I bevel the top and bottoms at 45* on the table saw. I like the increase bevel angle as it makes a nice visual contrast when viewing it via the soundhole. I also pre-raidus the gluing side on the table saw at 1.5* - 3* depending on the body style. It saves a lot of work on the belt sander.

_________________
tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Makes sense to me Russ. May I use it?

Keith,

No problem at all. We are here to share.

Let me know how it works for you!

Tim,
Can you explain your radiusing technique on the table saw or did you mean band saw?TIA

_________________
Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

Dave: I set my [cabinet saw] blade angle to 1.5* - 3* depending on the body style. Set the rip fence so that it just takes a skim cut on the gluing side face of the end block. Flip the block and rip the other side of the gluing face and you will end up with the gluing face looking like a "V" if looking at it from the top or back side. Then all I have to do is knock the point of the "V" off on the belt sander and it (3*) is almost a perfect fit for an OOO, OM or mini Jumbo or Jumbo. Dreads typically are much flatter at 1.5* and no sanding is required. If this isn't clear let me know and I will email a picture to you.

_________________
tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com